Monday, 7 March 2011

How NOT To Make a Glass Tile Pendant Part 3 - Bubbles

How annoying is this?  You make a beautiful pendant, it is flawless, yet a few days later you notice that bubbles have set under the glass...  grrr.  This was not even an intentional mistake for blogging purposes! This was a piece I made for myself because I love the combination of the ornate vintage bronze tray and the red paper.




The papers were well sealed, and I had coated the tray with ModPodge to avoid the blue rinse.  So what went wrong?  Here is what I think - I set the paper to the tray, and then the glass on top, and generally, you need to glue the paper to the glass first.  I have a sneaky suspicion that because the tray is slightly ridged on the inside, tiny air bubbles were trapped under the paper, which surfaced through the layer of fresh DG under the glass but couldn't then escape because the edges of the DG had already dried.  Just my theory!



I get far better results when I glue the glass tile to the paper first, let this dry, and then attach it to a tray.  Bubbles are definitely less, but one potential problem with doing it in this order is re-soaking the paper from the back, but that can be lessened by using a different type of glue in the tray, such as E6000.  Again I recommend experimenting to work out which method is best for you!

I'm going to keep this piece.  The camera blows up all the little detail but I still like this pendant and it is not that obvious at first glance, so it will be my little flawed piece and I will still wear it!  And ssssshhh, nobody need ever know about the bubbles.  Wanna see a super close up?


 
(Amazing that this would have printed out as an A2 size ...I looove my new camera!!)

4 comments:

  1. I know this is an old post but I noticed my pendants doing this, even days after I thought they were dry! I'm so sad, I had hoped to sell them but I might just have to discount them heavily as my first flawed batch. :(

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  2. I know, it's so disappointing when it happens - I find however the thicker the paper the less bubbles there are, and yes! after much experimenting our pieces now are completely free of bubbles - the trick that worked for us was thick smooth paper, laser printing and drying the pieces with a weight on top! Incidentally, you may be able to re-soak the damaged pieces if you used Diamond Glaze as it cleans up quite well, unfortunately the same can't be said for E6000. Good luck!

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  3. Hi, just wondering which paper to use for printing? How heavy should the paper be?

    Caroline

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    Replies
    1. Hi Caroline, we tend to use our local printers and generally let them choose the thickest, smoothest paper they have in stock - pick something that just falls short of card thickness and is completely smooth to the touch. Probably about 200-250gsm.

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